If it doesn't, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.įor a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8 x 1' round head fine thread machine screw about half way. Unless you have a much bigger budget, it’s probably the best option.Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a tablesaw that I learned maybe forty years ago and use to teach to my students. You won’t find many people who say it isn’t the best in its class… ie saws under $1,000, that can be folded up and wheeled around. Sure, it has plenty of limitations and cuts on materials quality for certain parts, because it’s a $650 saw, not a $2000 saw. They just replaced it because none of the general fixes online worked for me or the repair guys. My one big issue I had, that I had to send in to get fixed, was the raising and lowering mechanism, after about the first month, was barely working. Basic stuff like table top size, miter slots not being nicely uniform in thickness, vibration, noise, a hefty bow in the fence, etc. I used it for two years and only upgraded because I had the money and did get a little annoyed at times with limitations.

I have the DeWalt, though it’s my second saw now, but it was good enough that I decided to keep it after I upgraded.

T slot bolt dewalt table saw